Roof jobs are weight jobs. If you size for volume instead of density, you’ll pay for it. Here’s a simple framework that crews and homeowners can follow without guessing.

Step 1: figure out your roof squares (fast)

• Measure each roof plane (length × width in feet), add them up, divide by 100 to get squares.
• Add 10–15% for waste, valleys, and odd cuts.
• Note layers (one layer vs. two) and material type (asphalt, tile, metal, cedar)—this is your weight signal.

Step 2: choose size by roof squares (asphalt shingles)- choose by weight not volume

Squares drive weight. Pick by squares, then adjust for extra layers.

Recommended sizes (1 layer asphalt, dry)

• Recommended sizes (1 layer asphalt, dry)
• Roof Squares Dumpster Size Notes
• ≤ 15 squares 10-yard Keep flat, below the rails.
• 16–25 squares 15-yard Good balance of floor space + weight.
• 26–35 squares 20-yard Watch fill height; call for swap at the rail.
• 36–50 squares 30-yard Load flat/level; plan a mid-job swap if you’re nearing the rails.
• 51–65 squares 30-yard + planned swap Book the swap up front so crews don’t heap.
• > 65 squares 30-yard + multiple swaps (or two cans) Keep turnover moving; never mound.

A good rule of thumb is to carry 275lb per sq for single layer

Step 3: schedule swaps to match crew pace

• For single-day tear-offs, book a midday swap so shingles aren’t stacked above the rail.
• For multi-day roofs, plan end-of-day swaps and tarp overnight.
• Keep the driveway clear for the truck at both swap times.

How to load a roofing dumpster (so it actually hauls)

• Stage bundles/tear-off debris by the door; load heavy first, low and centered, front-to-back.
• Keep the top flat; don’t cone piles.
• Fill corners/gaps with felt, flashing, and light materials last.
• Stop at the rail and latch the door before topping with light debris from the sides.
• No liquids, fuels, adhesives/primers, propane cylinders, batteries, or mercury bulbs from attic finds.

What blows up roofing budgets

• “We’ll just get a 10/15 and be careful.” You won’t be—dense debris wins, and swaps cost money, get bigger with discounted tonnage and save 2 ways
• Blocked approaches. Parked cars, pallets, or low branches force trip charges and delays.

MA/FL/RI callouts

• Massachusetts: Multiple shingle layers are common on older homes. Budget two swaps for big capes or colonials. Winter means clear, salted access for set/pick.
• Florida: Storm repairs surge—book earlier and tarp nightly. Tile roofs are common and extremely dense: 10-yard with frequent swaps.
• Rhode Island: Tight, hilly streets and small driveways favor 10–15-yard cans placed with precision. Plan set/pick windows so the lane is open for the truck.

Crew-day checklist (pin this to the board)

• Squares calculated (+10–15% waste), layers counted, material type confirmed
• Dumpster sizes booked correctly and in excess of anticipated volume needs
• Swap times on the calendar; driveway kept clear at both times
• Plywood laid, drop zone marked, overhead clearance checked
• Magnet sweep tools ready for nails; tarp staged for overnight
• Restricted items staged separately (no fuels/adhesives/propane/batteries/mercury bulbs)

FAQs

Q: What size dumpster should I use for asphalt shingles by squares?

A: Use the largest can you can set safely. As a rule of thumb:

>20 squares: 15 yd (single haul)

20-25 squares: 20–25 yd (single haul)

26–42 squares: 25-30 yd (single haul, keep flat/below rails)

43–55 squares: 30 yd

>55 squares:30 yd (may require swap)

Q: Can I run a 30-yard for most roofs?
A: Yes. We run 30s for roofs routinely. The keys are a flat, level load at/below the rails, and pulling the can when you reach your internal stop line—don’t heap.

Q: How do extra layers impact the plan if I’m thinking in squares?
  A: Treat extra layers as added squares. A second layer typically behaves like +40-50% more squares. Stay with 25/30 yd and plan one extra haul in the same band.

Q: When do I actually need a second haul on asphalt?
A: When a flat, level load in a 30 hits your internal stop line—usually around 43–55 squares for single-layer dry tear-offs, sooner if wet/heavy. Pull it; never mound- also consider damage potential of extremely heavy dumpsters on the delivery surface/Driveway- not just what the truck can haul.

Q: Is a 25-yard enough for 30–35 squares?
A: Often, yes—if access limits you and you keep the load flat. If you have room, a 30 gives safer headroom and reduces the risk of heaping and generally comes with more discounted tonnage.

Q: What about tile/slate/concrete roofs (common in FL)?
A: These are far denser than asphalt. Still set the largest safe can (15/20), but expect weight to land you at 1–3 total hauls for the same squares where asphalt might be a single haul.

Q: Why not use multiple small cans instead of one big can?
A: Multiple small pulls are almost always slower and more expensive in total trips. One 25/30 with an additional haul only when needed is the efficient, cost-smart path.

Q: How high can I load the can?
A: At or below the rails. The tarp must lie flat. Anything above the rails or sticking out is unsafe, illegal to go down the road and won’t be hauled.

Q: What’s a “stop line,” and why use it?
A: A visual mark inside the 30 that tells crews “call the pull here.” It prevents overfill, keeps you legal on the road, and avoids reloads.

Q: Does rain change the plan?
A: Yes—water weight is real. Tarp between passes if possible. After heavy rain, assume the load behaves like more squares and be ready for an extra haul.

Q: Any placement rules for fast, clean pulls?
A: Clear a straight approach (60–80 ft), check 10–12 ft overhead clearance, lay plywood on pavers/soft ground, and keep cars out of the swing path at swap times.

Q: What can’t go in the roofing dumpster?
  A: No liquids (adhesives/primers, fuels), propane/pressurized cylinders, batteries, or mercury items. Keep those out to avoid rejections and delays.

Q: Do I need a permit if the can sits in the street?
A: Driveways typically don’t need one; street/sidewalk placements often require a ROW/obstruction permit. Check your city’s DPW/engineering page and also local fire departments- generally your contractor will know.

Q: How do you protect driveways and job sites?
A: Plywood is common under wheels/rails, precise drop zone, and a flat, centered load. Precision Disposal uses 2x10 or bigger for roofing projects to better disperse the weight. In hot/cold extremes, confirm set/pick windows and surface conditions.

Q: What about nails and debris around the site?
A: Load flat, keep the door area clean, and run a magnet sweep at the end of each day. It’s faster than tire claims and callbacks.

Q: Safety note—why is heaping a big deal on the road?
  A: Overfilled loads shed debris (nails, shingles, wood) into traffic and increase risk of accidents and fines. Overweight cans also lengthen stopping distance and stress brakes/axles. Keep it flat and legal.